Rocky Mountain News (CO)
October 8, 1999
Section: Entertainment/Weekend/Spotlight
Page Number: 20D

TWO DELIS TO DIE FOR
Thom Wise
Denver Rocky Mountain News Staff Writer

MANNY'S UNDERGROUND
Grade: A-
Where: 1836 Blake St.
Hours: Monday to Friday, 7 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Food: Deli
How much: $2.25 to $6.75
Of note: The specials
Information: (303) 308-0110

THE SPICY PICKLE SUB SHOP
Grade: B+
Where: 988 Lincoln St.
Hours: Monday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Food: Deli
How much: $1.25 to $6.95
Of note: The decor
Information: (303) 860-0730

There are high-tech delis, plastic delis and delis that smell too much like sauerkraut. But the best, by far, are the ones that feel like home - a comfortable place where you can expect a smile and a decent sandwich at a reasonable price.
That's Manny's Underground in a nutshell.

Found below street-level, the steps seem well-trodden. Just a block from Coors Field, on baseball days you can barely get into the place. Even in the off season, it's surprising how busy Manny's can get - thanks to strong word-of-mouth and customer loyalty.

The ordering system works, although the entrance area can seem congested as people stare at the menu board while deciding what to order. A counter person takes your order and your name. You move down the line, past the dessert and cookie cases to get your drinks and pay. Then when the food is ready someone calls your name and you walk back to the counter to pick it up. Simple, if initially confusing.

Breakfast dishes include a thick, homemade oatmeal (for a reasonable $2.25), served with raisins and brown sugar. The breakfast burrito ($4.25) may not be the cheapest in town, but it's flavorful and chock-full of eggs, sausage and potatoes, wrapped in a tortilla. You can get it smothered in homemade green chili for an additional $1.50.

As with most of the sandwiches at Manny's, the breakfast panini ($2.50 / $3.75) can be ordered half or whole size. At lunch, any half-panini can be had for just $4, and any half-sandwich with meat is $3.75. A half veggie sandwich will only set you back $3.50.

Most of the usual sandwiches are available: roast beef with horseradish ($5.35), egg salad ($4.75) or turkey ($5.35) served with a distinctive tarragon mustard. A more interesting offering is the curried chicken salad ($5.35), made with a light curry and raisins that add a touch of sweetness. Vegetarians will enjoy the hummus sandwich ($5), prepared with cucumber, carrots, sprouts and tomato on choice of breads.

The panini sandwiches are enormous, with the fillings put into focaccia bread before set in a special two-sided pressed grill. All your favorites are there: turkey with artichoke hearts and bacon ($6.25); a not-too-salty tuna salad ($5.75); or a messy but delicious eggplant, spinach and pesto ($6).

Regulars know to check the specials before ordering. There's almost always a homemade empanada ($6.75), meats and veggies stuffed into a pastry pillow that's then baked. House specials are often something like stuffed chicken breast ($6.50) served over rice. The homemade soups ($2 to $3) are good as well, and change daily.

If you order nothing else, don't miss the apple pie ($2.50 / slice). This is tops in town, homemade with thick but not-too-sweet crust (the secret is a touch of corn syrup) and loads of granny smith apples. It's just like mom's - and maybe better.

Another deli is The Spicy Pickle. Not the Stinky Pickle or the Spooky Pickle, but spicy as in each sandwich is served with a spicy-hot pickle slice. Got it?

It couldn't have been too tough of a decision to lease this spot. The traffic along Lincoln Street seems unrelenting, with plenty of parking spaces and an abundance of office buildings in the neighborhood. As much as anything, The Spicy Pickle enjoys the expertise of one of the owners, Tony Walker, who also happens to be chef at the Barolo Grille on East Sixth Avenue.

The thoughtful decor smacks of urban chic, with its red walls, comfortable chairs, and Room and Board metal magazine rack. It's a nice addition to Capitol Hill, showing how quickly this neighborhood is changing.

Though not my favorite line of meats, Spicy Pickle uses Boar's Head meats on its sub sandwiches and panini offerings. Two sub sizes are available, all served on Italian loaf: regular, ranging from $4.95 to $6.25; and large, priced from $5.95 to $7.50.

After making your meat selection, you need to decide between 15 toppings, 11 spreads and nine cheeses. The sheer volume of possible combinations confounds the imagination.

Try the Cajun roast beef with roasted eggplant, basil mayo and muenster. Or there's rosemary ham with green peppers, dijon mustard and swiss. If you're undecided, the counter help seems more than ready to help speed along your decision-making process with a helpful suggestion or two.

The Roma panini ($5.50) has a fresh taste to it, prepared with thin-sliced tomatoes, mozzarella and basil mayo. Another interesting combination is the gobbler panini ($6.25), filled with artichoke hearts, feta cheese and sun-dried tomato spread.

The side salads are fresh made, including a tri-colored rotini pasta ($1.50) with pepperoni slices and olives in a tart vinaigrette or potato salad ($1.50) with big hunks of potato and eggs in a creamy mayo and mustard dressing. The cole slaw ($1.25) had a bit too much bite to it. Perhaps it would be better on a sandwich.

The folks at Spicy Pickle haven't missed a trick. You can even order dill flavored chips (80 cents). Can pickle cheesecake be far behind?